Day 116  (30/8/13)  Ramsgate to Shotley (via Pin Mill)  (52/2109nm)

Depart 0600, Arrive 1600.

Wind SW F3/4. Sunny and warm. Sailed.

Wonderful sail, beam wind all the way - just perfect. Sailed down the Orwell to Pin Mill to wave to Sandra and friends sailing on Victor a Thames Barge.  Back to Shotley to end my circumnavigation.

Day 114 to 115  (28 to 29/8/13)  Ramsgate

Met Chris Blunkell NVCC (National Voice of Coastal Communities) member.  Discussed EA/Defra coastal policy and the formation of the Blyth Estuary Group.  He is writing a paper on community engagement in coastal policy.  Tomorrow I return to Shotley - the last leg of my four month UK circumnavigation. I am looking forward to returning home.  I have many wonderful memories of the beautiful coast, the sea, the harbours, the wildlife and the interesting people I have met along the way. The start of my journey does now seem a very long time ago. This is a very strange feeling!  

Day 109 to 112  (22 to 25/8/13)  Littlehampton

Caroline and Mike drove me around the area to see the sights including a visit to the east part of the Medmerry realignment site.  Mathew (son) and Claire et fam visited the boat and on the last day Caroline’s son Richard and Claire visited.  Littlehampton Harbour is an excellent place to stay – all the facilities you could want close at hand.

Day 113  (26/8/13)  Littlehampton to Brighton  (19/1979nm)

Depart 1300, Arrive 1800.

Wind NE F3. Sunny and warm. Sailed and motorsailed.

Crew - Matthew and daughters Kitty and Alice.  In the evening met Bron and Martin et fam in the West Quay (Wetherstones) pub in Brighton Marina.

Day 114  (27/8/13)  Brighton Marina to Ramsgate  (78/2057nm)

Depart 0800, Arrive 2100.

Wind NE F3. Sunny and warm. Motored.  Tried to sail when wind increased but it soon died.  The boat needs at least 12kts to meet tidal gates on this long leg.

Day 105 (18/8/13) Hamble to Chichester Marina  (31/1933nm)

Depart 1345, Arrive 2010.

Wind SW F4 Sailed. Sunny and warm.

Day 106  (19/8/13)  Chichester Marina

Took a bus to Bracklesham to see the EA’s £20million Medmerry Managed Realignment scheme. The EA are making a hole in the 400 year old shingle ridge to flood 800ha of SSSI grazing marsh.  This is part of the Government’s plan to realign (abandon) 500Km of rural sea defences by 2030. My guess is that a very large part of the remaining shingle ridge will end up inside the MR site blocking all the sluices.  One to watch I suspect.  Excellent curry in the marina Spinnaker Indian.

Day 107  (20/8/13) Chichester to Sparkes Marina (Hayling Island)  (6/1939nm)

Depart 1200. Arrive 1400.

Wind SW F3.  Motored. Sunny and warm.

Sparkes is a fine marina with an excellent bar and restaurant.  Went to see the EA funded £5million sea defence scheme designed by the East Solent Coastal Partnership.  Met the Partnership Project Manager Marc Bryan. The scheme was designed entirely in house (no consultant or EA design input).  Four new rock groynes and a 1km rock revetment.  67,000 tonnes of Norwegian Rock at £37/tonne delivered - an impressive sight.  Superb locally caught Gilthead Bream in the Piranha Bar followed by a very good  band later in the evening.

Day 108  (21/8/13)  Hayling Island to Littlehampton  (21/1960nm)

Depart 0700,  Arrive 1100.

Wind S F2. Sunny and warm (millpond sea) . Motored.

Met Caroline (sister) and Mike. Lunch at the Good Beer Guide listed pub brewery Gribble Inn at Oving. Barbecue in the evening of tender Sussex Lamb.  Alternator has stopped charging. Ordered a replacement set of alternator power diodes from the USA.  Luckily the marinas on my way back all have shore power to charge the batteries.

 

Day 99 to 101  (12 to14/8/13) Yarmouth IOW

Visited St Catherine’s Lighthouse, the Garlic Farm and the Sharon Orchard Cidery.  Excellent curry in Yarmouth’s Indian Tapas Bar.

Day 102  (15/8/13)  Yarmouth to Lymington Yacht Haven  (4/1889nm)

To Lymington to pick up a replacement for a faulty engine warning buzzer.  Met James, Alison and daughter Boo.

Day 103  (16/8/13)  Lymington to Point Hamble Marina  (13/1902nm)

Depart 1400, Arrive 1630.

Wind W F4. Sailed. Cloudy. Met Kerris (Fellow circumnavigator Rob Cowley’s partner and occasional crew).  Went through my trip photos.

Day 104  (17/8/13)  Hamble Point Marina

Rain and 20kt wind today. Off to Chichester tomorrow.

Day 97  (10/8/13)  Lymington to Yarmouth IOW   (3/1885nm)

Depart 1130, Arrive 1230.

Wind W F4 sunny & warm. Motored.

Walked to the Royal Solent Yacht Club for a pint of Sharp’s Doom Bar and admired the fine view of the Solent.  Much bar talk of Cowes Week and tomorrow’s Fastnet race.

Day 98  (11/8/13) Yarmouth IOW

Saw the Fastnet multi-hulls race past Yarmouth.  Just in the lead was Oman Air followed by the massive Spindrift 2.  I shall follow their progress on the internet.

Day 97  (10/8/13)  Lymington to Yarmouth IOW   (3/1885nm)

Depart 1130, Arrive 1230.

Wind W F4 sunny & warm. Motored.

Walked to the Royal Yarmouth Yacht Club for a pint of Sharp’s Doom Bar and admired the fine view of the Solent.  Much bar talk of Cowes Week and tomorrow’s Fastnet race.

Day 98  (11/8/13) Yarmouth IOW

Saw the Fastnet multi-hulls race past Yarmouth.  Just in the lead was Oman Air followed by the massive Spindrift 2.  I shall follow their progress on the internet.

Day 97  (10/8/13)  Lymington to Yarmouth IOW   (3/1885nm)

Depart 1130, Arrive 1230.

Wind W F4 sunny & warm. Motored.

Walked to the Royal Yarmouth Yacht Club for a pint of Sharp’s Doom Bar and admired the fine view of the Solent.  Much bar talk of Cowes Week and tomorrow’s Fastnet race.

Day 98  (11/8/13) Yarmouth IOW

Saw the Fastnet multi-hulls race past Yarmouth.  Just in the lead was Oman Air followed by the massive Spindrift 2.  I shall follow their progress on the internet.

Day 95  (8/8/13)  Weymouth to Lulworth Cove  (8/1848nm)

Depart 1000, Arrive 1200.

Wind SW F2. Sunny and Warm. Motored.

Anchored along with six other yachts in this beautiful cove.  Many swimming and fishing.  The night brought a strong SW wind and an uncomfortable swell into the cove.

Day 96  (9/8/13)  Lulworth Cove to Lymington Marina  (34/1882nm)

Depart 0600, Arrive 1130.

Wind W F3/4 Cloud then sun, warm. Sailed.

Excellent Seabass in the Bluebird Restaurant.

Day 93  (6/8/13) Brixham to Weymouth  (50/1840nm)

Depart 0245, Arrive 1100.

Wind SW F2. Sunny, warm and windless. Motored.  Moored on Custom House Quay pontoon on the inside of a 4 yacht raft.  Weymouth is a fine town with many good shops and restaurants.

Day 94   (7/8/13)  Weymouth

Dinner with Mike and Kips, daughter Liz and her children Edward and Florence.  Off tomorrow to anchor in Lulworth Cove.

Day 90  (3/8/13)  Kingswear to Brixham  (8/1790nm)

Depart 1400, Arrive 1640.

Wind SW F4 Sailed. Sunny and warm.

Dinner of grilled sole in the Crab Quay Restaurant was excellent.

Day 91 to 92  (4 to 5/8/13)  Brixham Marina 

Provisioned and laundered.  Met a fellow sailor who knew the boat and had sailed to the Scilly Isles with John Oakeley, the first owner.  Off to Weymouth at 0400 tomorrow.

 

Day 87  (31/7/13)  Fowey to Salcombe  (41/1764nm)

Depart 1030, Arrive 1700.

Wind SW F4. Cloud and mist.  Sailed at 6kts for most of leg.

Moored on visitor’s pontoon some distance from the town.

Day 88  (1/8/13)  Salcombe to Kingswear (Dartmouth)  (18/1782nm)

Depart 1200, Arrive 1600.

Wind SW F2/3.  Sunny and warm with fog patches. Motorsailed. 

Sailed close inshore to see the beautiful beaches of Lannacombe, Beesands and Torcross. The 3800 tonne square-rigger barque Sea Cloud 2 moored in Dartmouth Harbour during the evening.  She carries 96 passengers and was built for her German owners in 1999. She left the following morning.

Day 89  (2/7/13) Kingswear (Darthaven Marina)

Took a ride on the Dart Valley Steam Railway to Churston to see the Torbay Steam Fair.  Arrived to see a beautifully restored 1909 Stanley steam powered car driving fast around the ring - apparently it can reach 45mph on the flat, not bad for 1909. Perhaps one of the most bizarre sights at the show was Willem Kelder’s enormous 9m x 3m 118 key fairground organ ‘Victory’ playing at full volume, Led Zeppelin’s Stairway to Heaven – quite stunning.  Superb Irish folk group ‘Black Velvet’ performed in the well stocked real ale marquee.  In the evening I took the ferry to Dartmouth for a walk and provisions from the Co-op.  Tomorrow afternoon off to Brixham in the sun.

Day 83 to 86  (27 to 30/7/13)  Fowey Harbour

The 64m three masted German square rig sail-training ship Grossherzogin Elisabeth moored in the harbour on Friday. On Saturday it sailed out fully rigged giving an ear-splitting blast from its horn – an impressive sight. Sandra and Graham visited for two nights. Tomorrow weather permitting off to the River Yealm. Kittows of Fowey sell the best pasties and pork pies. The fridge is now well stocked for the next leg.

Day 81   (25/7/13)  Falmouth Visitors Yacht Haven

Long walk around the town, provisioned and laundered. Many fine restaurants in Falmouth - chose the acclaimed ‘Samphire’ - head chef Dave Trewin.  Tempura vegetables and seafood followed by pan fried Seabass were simply outstanding.

Day 82  (26/7/13) Falmouth to Fowey  (23/1723nm)

Depart 0900, Arrive 1400.

Wind SSW F3/4 Sunny and warm. A wonderful sail in perfect conditions.

In the evening walked around picturesque Fowey. A pint of St Austell Tribute in the Fowey Yacht Club, watched the end of a race in the evening sun and back to the boat via Water Taxi.

Day 80  (24/7/13)  St Mary’s IOS to Falmouth  (64/1700nm)

Depart 1900 (23/7/13), Arrive 0900 (24/7/13).

Wind SSW F4 cloud then clear and warm.  Fantastic 12 hour moonlight sail.  Roger Tutt leaves today.

Day 77  (21/7/13)  St Mary’s Harbour to St Agnes  (2/1634nm)

Depart  1545, Arrive 1630.

Wind E F3 Foggy and very damp.

Walked around pretty Hugh Town.  Lunch at the Atlantic Inn. Motored to St Agnes, anchored, pumped up the dinghy and rowed through the fog to the Turk’s Head for dinner.  Later in the evening the pub was entertained by two local singers and an excellent St Agnes rock band ‘Nut Rock’.

Day 78  (22/7/13)  St Agnes

Sunny and warm.

Lunch in the Turk’s Head followed by a long walk around Gugh - a profusion of beautiful wild flowers, birds and stunning views. Rowing back I spotted and photographed a beautiful purple jellyfish – about 100mm diameter.

Day 79  (23/7/13)  St Agnes to St Mary’s  (2/1636nm)

Sunny and warm. Motored to St Mary’s to refuel.  Lunch at the Atlantic Inn and back to the boat for a rest before night sailing to Falmouth at 2300. ETA Falmouth about 1000 tomorrow.

Day 75  (19/7/13)  Padstow to St Ives Bay  (31/1587nm)

Depart 1500, Arrive 2030.

WindE F2 to 4.  Sunny. Motored and sailed last 3 hours.

Anchored in St Ives Bay.  Uncomfortable sea swell for most of  the night.

Day 76  (20/7/13)  St Ives Bay to St Mary’s (Scilly Isles)  (45/1632nm)

Depart 0600, Arrive 1230.

Wind E F4 to F6.  Sunny. Sailed goose- winged almost the entire distance.  By 1200 the 20kt wind had built a very large swell around the entrance to St Mary’s Sound making the entrance challenging.  As the harbour was full we anchored nearby amongst fifty other yachts.  The largest number seen in many years according to the Harbour Master.

 

Day 72 to 74  (16 to18/7/13)  Padstow Harbour
Sunny, very hot with little wind.

Known locally as Padstein owing to the fourteen food, shop and hotel establishments owned by TV chef Rick Stein.  Dinner at his Petrock Bistro of Pea and Lettuce soup followed by Hake was superb. Hired a car to see Jonathan and Harry (son and grandson) compete in the Merlin Rocket Championship in Salcombe.  Stayed in a dog friendly hotel near Salcombe.  At breakfast I was surrounded by a room full of dogs and their owners – being on my own and without a dog I felt at a distinct disadvantage.  Later met with Mike (brother in law) and Kips (wife), their children and grand children for an excellent second breakfast at their magnificent holiday let overlooking Salcombe. Roger Tutt joins tomorrow for a few days sailing.  We will leave Padstow at high water 1500 tomorrow and anchor in St Ives Bay around 2000 for an 0530 start to the Scilly Isles on Saturday.  The wind is expected to be E 20kts on Saturday.

Day 68  (12/7/13)  Aberystwyth to Fishguard  (41/1425nm)

Depart 1400, Arrive 2045.

Wind V F2. Sunny ‘millpond’, motored and anchored near Saddle Point.

Day 69  (13/7/13)  Fishguard to Skomer to Dale (Milford Haven)  (36/1461nm)

Inflated dinghy and walked around the pretty harbour of Aber Gwaun before leaving for Skomer.

Depart 1230, Arrive 1630 Skomer and 1916 Dale.

Wind V F1. Sunny ‘millpond’ sea, motored and anchored in Skomer. Walked to the RSPB station through thousands of Puffin nests.

Motored to Dale (9nm) picked up a buoy and had dinner in the nearby Griffin Inn.

Day 70  (14/7/13)  Dale to Nayland to Dale  (23/1484nm)

Depart 1045, Arrive 1215 Nayland and 1500 Dale.

Wind W F2/4 motored to Nayland for fuel and water then sailed to Dale.  Dinner in the Griffin Inn with Neil’s friend Gareth. Neil leaves today.

Day 71  (15/7/13) Dale to Padstow  (72/1556nm)

Depart 0730, Arrive 2130.

Wind NW F1 to F4.  50m Fog for first 4 hours motored under radar.  Sailed last 4 hours. Joined by six Dolphins for about ten minutes.

Day 66  (10/7/13)  Pwllheli to Aberystwyth  (33/1384nm)

Depart 1345, Arrive 1930.

WindF3 W. Sailed and motorsailed. Hazy sun. Near mill pond conditions. Walked into town and found the place full of university students celebrating graduation day.  Aberystwyth is a fine town with a superb esplanade.

Day 67  (11/7/13) Aberystwyth Marina

Very warm and sunny.  Neil arrived by train for a three days of sailing. Off to Fishguard tomorrow.

Day 64

Day 64  (8/7/13)  Holyhead to Pwllheli  (56/1351nm)

 

Depart 1045, Arrive 1930.

Wind NW F2 to F4.  Hazy sun. Motored and sailed last 3 hours – a perfect evenings sail.

Millpond sea until 1600. Very warm 24^oC.  Fridge beginning to fail due to slow refrigerant leak. Managed to find an Aircon engineer in Pwllheli for a regas tomorrow – the power of Yellow Pages and a good internet connection whilst on the move.  Walked into town – not very exciting.

Day 65  (9/7/13)  Pwllheli Marina

Very hot today 26^oC.  Nick from Appliance Services arrives to regas the fridge.  All is now working well.  In the evening I met Doug and Joy, friends of Neil and Sally Rice for supper at the Ship Inn plus a couple of pints of excellent Haworth ‘Rascal’.  This was followed by a tour of the beautiful Penrhyn Hills and a nightcap at their superbly situated house overlooking Pwllheli and the mountains beyond.  Doug, well known in lighting circles for his magic lantern shows, is also an accomplished sax player (blues, jazz, rock and classic) played us a few tunes from his collection of nine instruments.  He even plays to the cows - they are apparently deeply attracted by the bull like low notes of his baritone sax – a sight to see next time!  Thanks to you both for a great evening. Off to Aberystwyth tomorrow where Neil Rice will be joining the boat for a few days.

Day 60 to 63

Day 60 to 63  (4 to7/7/13)  Holyhead Marina (Anglesea)

Crew John Eastwood leaves. Met up with Sandra and her friend Pam staying near Beaumaris.  Visited Red Wharf Bay and Dulas Bay. Off to Pwllheli tomorrow.

Day 58 (2/7/13) Peel Marina.

Day 58  (2/7/13)  Peel Marina.

Peel is a historic town set in a natural harbour with an impressive ruined castle at its entrance.  Many old buildings surround the port; in the port itself were a number of decrepit half-sunk sailing and other boats. 

The day itself lived up to the forecast by having a day of strong winds and driving rain.  We looked at a number of antique shops, some with a nautical flavour.   The 2013 Good Beer Guide stood us in good stead by recommending The Creek public house [more or less on the quay], which had no fewer than 10 draught ales on tap.  Installed on a stool at the end of the bar was the ‘Pub philosopher’ claiming “Global warming is just the latest new religion, you know”.  He was engaged in conversation but was found to know little. 

Later we visited another of the recommendations, the White House Hotel, a truly traditional pub with numerous bars, hatches, and a number of traditional pub games.  In a corner of the Snug there were a group of locals speaking Manx.

Day 59  (3/7/13)  Peel to Holyhead (Anglesea)  (60/1295nm)

Depart 0700, Arrive 1700.

Wind W F4/5. Sailed.

A very good day for sailing – good beam wind and hazy sun.  There was however an unpleasant swell from the previous days gale.  Holyhead Harbour is vast and bleak but very convenient for making a passage south.

x

Day 55 (29/6/13) Port Ellen to Campbeltown (Mull of Kintyre) (46/1136nm)

Depart 0900, Arrive 1600.

Wind SW F3 to F5. Cloudy. Sailed and motorsailed. Left Port Ellen just as Chris and Jan left by ferry. On arrival in Campbeltown we spent the evening in the harbourside Black Sheep bar. Met Donna and Stuart, social worker and policeman respectively, both of whom work locally. Had a very interesting conversation about local social issues as well as the wider problem of climate change – so much so that we missed supper.

Day 56 (30/6/13) Campbeltownto Girvan (29/1165nm)

Depart 0700, Arrive 1300.

Wind SSW F5 to F7. Sailed and motorsailed.

Intended to go to Portpatrick or even Peel [Isle of Man]. However, the 30 knot gusts and heavy seas made progress very slow and unpleasant. Turned 90 degrees to port and headed to Givan. Had to wait for over an hour outside the harbour for there to be 1.3 metres of depth needed for entry. A most helpful Harbour Master, Roderick Leitch, met us at the end of the pier on his bike and, having shown us how to avoid getting grounded in the centre of the waterway, directed us to the far right against the pier itself. As we arrived at the brand new pontoon (opened June 20th), the Harbour Master again appeared. In the evening we had excellent real ale at The Roxy and very tasty haggis, neaps, tatties, with Aran mustard sauce. Were well looked after by three young ladies – Claire, Laura and Kaidi.

Day 57 (1/7/13) Girvan to Peel (Isle of Man) (70/1235nm)

Depart 0700, Arrive 2120.

Wind SW F2 to F4. Motored.

On the way to Portpatrick saw a basking shark as it swam slowly across the stern. Had to call in at Portpatrick to purchase diesel but found none available in the harbour. Spotted a dockside Fish and Chip van and had excellent fresh haddock and chips [£5 x 2]. Diane, who runs the stall, and Brian very kindly loaned us two cans and drove us to Stranraer to collect 40 litres of red diesel which we lowered over the dockside down a vertical metal ladder to the boat. We sympathise with the local fishermen who have to bring their own diesel every time they go fishing. In the harbour we saw 4 guillemots on the water. They have nests in the harbour wall – a most unusual ornithological phenomenon that has attracted ‘twitchers’. Motored to Peel and spent the night on a buoy in the outer harbour to await the tide gate opening in the morning.

Day 52  (26/6/13)  Loch Aline to Port Ellen (Islay)  (70/1090nm)

Depart 0600, Arrive 1830.

Wind NW F3/4. Sun and cloud.  All by engine.   As we entered the Sound of Islay we encountered a tide of up to 3.9 knots [against us], and had to manoeuvre in the channel with great care.  Saw Bunnahabhain distillery.  As we came along the south coast we saw 3 of the ‘great 12’ distilleries – Ardbeg, Lagavulin and Laphroaig.

Day 53  (27/6/13) Port Ellen

Visited Laphroaig distillery for a tour.  Very good value at £5 – one free dram and a Laphroiag whisky glass.  Met Chris and Jan (holidaying on Islay) who kindly drove us around.  We saw several red deer and visited an ancient ruined church in the south-east of the island.  The evening was spent at the newly rebuilt Islay Hotel listening to traditional music and a fine female  soloist singing in Gallic. This was followed by a nightcap aboard Karla and Frank’s magnificent 55ft aluminium sailing boat from Kiel who were on a tour of the Western Isles.

Day 54  (28/6/13) Port Ellen

Wind NW F7 and rain. Decided to postpone the next move to Campbeltown (Mull of Kintyre) until tomorrow when the wind is forecasted to be less strong .  Excellent Fish & Chips at the Islay Hotel.  Barman Tom says the hotel may soon get a hand pump to dispense real ale from the Islay brewery.

Day 49 (23/6/13)  Stein to Canna  (36/979nm)

Depart 0740, Arrive1430.

Wind S F4. Cloud, rain and heavy swell. Motored.

Entertained by groups of Dolphins for over an hour.  Saw guillemots, puffins, shearwaters and gannets. Decided to inflate dinghy and row to the slipway for a walk around the loch. Saw many large rabbit warrens on steep peaty slopes.  On our return found it impossible to row against the increased wind and had to carry the dinghy half a mile to launch upwind of the boat.

Day 50  (23/6/13) Canna Harbour

Wind N F8 rain and cloud. Stayed on board and read.  No phone or internet connection.

Day 51  (24/6/13)  Canna to Tobermory (Mull)  (41/1020nm)

Wind NW F2/4 Sunny. Sailed and motorsailed.  Saw hundreds of guillemots. Met fellow circumnavigator Rob. Exellent dinner in the Fish Cafe. 

Day 52  (25/6/13) Tobermory to Loch Aline  (12/1032nm)

Depart 1745, Arrive 2000.

Wind W F3/4. Sun and cloud and slight rain.   Went for walk above Tobermory and found local fishmonger.  At Loch Aline fresh salmon in the evening, followed by magnificent Edradour single malt.  Off to Port Ellen (Islay) tomorrow.

Day 48  (21/6/13)  Stornoway to Stein (Skye)  (46/943nm)

Depart 0845, Arrive 1640.

Wind S F2. Motored. Saw Seals, Porpoise, Basking Shark, Puffins and Little Auks. Dinner with friends Pat and Cathy who live in Stein. Much reminiscing about the psychedelic lighting era of liquid displays. Off to Canna tomorrow.

Day 44 to 47  (17 to 20/6/13)  Stornoway Harbour

A fine place Stornoway. Bagpipes in the castle grounds on Tuesday, good beer in the Carlton and fantastic food in the Digby Chick Restaurant. Visited the Callanish neolithic stones - part of a thirty mile circular bus tour. John Eastwood joined as crew on Wednesday. Off south tomorrow to Stein (Skye) or Lochmaddy (North Uist).

Day 43 (16/6/13) Lochinver to Stornoway (Lewis) (39/897nm)

Depart 0800, Arrive 1430.

Wind NE F4/5.

Sunny and a perfect beam wind. Four porpoises appeared briefly.  Basking shark seen in Stornoway Bay.